Smartno and Brda Region (Slovenia) – Tips + Photos

Discover the stunning region of Goriska Brda Slovenia with rolling hills, vineyards, charming old villages, the Dobrovo Castle, and scenic views all around. Sometimes called the Tuscany of Slovenia, it is a great place to relax and enjoy wine tourism.
Below is my guide to help you plan your visit to Smartno and the Brda region with tips, map, and photos.

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Brda is a perfect mixture of rolling hills, trees, lines of vines and old villages (with the bonus of not having too many tourists).
It is often overlooked compared to other regions of Slovenia (or its top attractions), but it is absolutely charming. We had a great time there (although too short, as always...).

It is sometimes compared to Tuscany, the wine region in Italy. But I have not been there yet, so I can't confirm.

All the best sites in the Brda region are situated in a detailed map in my Travel Guide eBook:

How to get to Dobrovo and the Brda region

• The main town is Dobrovo
• You can either come from the mountains along the Soca River and drive from the South border, crossing into Italy before driving back into Slovenia. 
• Ljubljana to Dobrovo = 2h drive
• Piran to Dobrovo = 1h30
• Triestre (Italy) to Dobrovo - 1h drive
• You can only really travel by car

Visiting Brda

• How long? I recommend staying at least 2 days to enjoy the region but 1 afternoon and 1 morning would already be great if your itinerary is tight. I recommend a night there to admire the sunset on the hills and vineyards.
• Where to start? The Dobrovo Castle is a great place to start; There is a visitor center where you can find information
• There are 2 touristic roads which have been created: the Vinska Cesta, to discover the vineyards, and the Grdanik trail (with locations around the life and work of Gradnik a local poet)

• otherwise, you can find interesting accommodations in the village of Smartno - check out options
• or check out more accommodation options in the Brda region.

Above the town is the Dobrovo Castle.
The square Renaissance style Castle was built in the 17th century on the ruins of an old castle.
It is very symmetrical with square towers at each corner. One of them was turned into a chapel.

The main touristic interest of the region is of course the vineyards and wineries. 
Right when you enter the region from the Alps, you are welcome into the wine world with signs like this one below:

At Klet Brda you can visit one of the largest cellars in Slovenia - book a cellar tour

Or you can just drive around and admire the mix of trees and vineyards and old villages.
The hilly landscapes are perfect to grow grapes.
You can find more than 150 producers in the region

Another great attraction is the fortified village of Smartno in the middle of the region, and a cultural monument because of its historical value.
Below you can see the whole village. Picture taken from the Gonjace tower (that I will introduce in the next section).
You can see it from many parts of the region because of its location. And the poet A. Gradnik has compared it with an eagle's nest.

When approaching Smartno there is a carpark right by the entrance.

And you can find a map with the fortification plan. It is believed that the walls were erected on the remains of a Roman bastion during the war between the Habsburgs and the Venetians in the 16th century. It was a very strategic point on the Border between Venice and Austria.
It was actually part of a system of fortifications throughout the region, which had been used until the middle of the 18th century.

Roman ruins have been found under the current fortress.

The modern and old houses inside Šmartno are grouped closely in a labyrinth around the church of St. Martin.
The Gothic house can even be visited. It has typical elements of the region to see how people used to live.
Smartno is a village that welcomes artist who enjoy the peaceful environment.

Sadly, I was not able to visit the church which was closed. Saint Martin is a baroque church with vibrant fresco and a bell tower which was once a fortification tower.

I really love when I can get as high as possible to see a town or a region from above (without actually flying).
Luckily, in Goriska Brda, they have built the Gonjace Tower.

It stands at the top of a hill not far from Smartno. Here it is:

The Gonjace lookout tower is actually a memorial monument built in 1961, dedicated to the victims of World War II.
It is a 23m high tower with 144 steps leading to 4 viewing platforms depending on how much you suffer from vertigo (or are scared because of the wind).
The steps are well spaced and wide, so it is quite easy to climb. I personally stopped at the 3rd platform.
But if you climb to the top there is an orientation table.

From the Gonjace Tower you have 360° views of the region. It is splendid.
One of the best views is towards the village of Smartno.

Or towards higher mountains.
I recommend bringing binoculars to admire the villages even more (see my guide to help you choose binoculars)

But just take the time to drive around, explore smaller roads and admire the various small villages and vineyards.
Here are a few extra photos just for the pleasure:

And other things to do in Brda

There is also another castle / Mansion (Vilpoze) and some natural features, but after research I decided not to include them in my itinerary and to move on to another region.

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