Best of the Alabaster Coast (Normandy, France)

Why visit the Alabaster coast in Normandy?

The Alabaster coast is my favorite destination in Normandy. As it is often said, a picture is worth a thousand words... So, let's start with these 3 photos taken in Etretat, the most famous section of the Alabaster coast (called Côte d'Albâtre in French):

The cliffs are definitively the main attractions of this area. Sometimes, as in the picture below, you can see them continuing on until the horizon.
The coast is around 130km long and there are cliffs almost everywhere that are 30m to 105m tall (100ft to 345ft).

Now, do you understand or shall I explain why this area is a must-visit when road tripping around Normandy?

But, in fact, the Alabaster coast is actually more than just the cliffs:

• Large and small towns with a lot of character
• Tiny valleys cutting through the cliffs
• Charming villages where you should enjoy a stroll
• Historical sites - Castles, Churches and WWII bunkers.

I will tell you more about them in this article, with plenty of pictures!

Planning Tips - Côte d'Albâtre, Normandy

All my favorite stops along the coast are included in my road trip guide (with a more detailed map) to help you plan your itinerary:

The best clay cliffs views 

Cap Fagnet 

Near the town of Fécamp, you can drive or walk up to Cap Fagnet. The location is famous for its church, its WWII bunkers and for the impressive views.
On one side you can see the whole town of Fécamp and the cliffs towards the South.
But what I prefer is to walk a little North on the path to admire the wall of cliffs towards the North with waves sculpted by the sea.

There is a large carpark, it is easy to access.
Learn more in my Cap Fagnet article.

Étretat South Cliffs

Étretat North Cliffs

But if you are fit enough, I recommend climbing also on the other side (steep staircase from the promenade, or via the streets (less steep but longer) or during the Touristy season, they have public transportation.
On this side you have the gardens with art pieces, the aviation monument, the chapel and the most famous view of Étretat towards the thin arch and the pinnacle. You can even see the hole that allows you to reach the next beach at low tide.

Le Tréport across the harbor

My last viewpoint selection is quite different. As you visit Le Tréport, drive towards the next town of Mers-les-Bains (which is not in Normandy). Once on the other side of the harbor mouth, you have a view of the historical neighborhood of Le Tréport and the massive cliffs behind. Those are some of the highest on the coast!

The "Valleuses", small valleys and staircases

As you can see above, there are kilometers and kilometers of tall cliff walls.
But once in a while there are accesses to the sea via man-built staircases, nature-created valleys and tiny valleys (called Valleuses). Or a mix of them.
The valleuses are more like cuts. They are quite unique in terms of geology. They were created 2 million years ago when the ground was lifted and by erosion.
Below are some of my favorite locations to explore.

My first choice is a natural valley cut. The narrow Gorge des Moutiers is very impressive as you arrive on the beach between the walls of cliffs.
The walk starts next to a charming chapel at the top of the cliffs.
The last section is quite steep (and people with vertigo will have a difficult time) but I think it is worth the effort.

Sotteville Staircase

At Sotteville, you can find a man-made access to the sea. It was carved out of the chalk in 1890. At the time it was to give fishermen access to the sea. The original steps were made of wood, but they were blown up during the occupation.  
The current staircase was built in 1954 with 231 steps. 
I love them because they give access to the impressive wall of cliffs.
At low tide you can walk on the beach, but at high tide, it feels life you are walking down directly into the sea.

Saint-Pierre-en-Port

The little valley "Valleuse" of Saint-Pierre-en-Port was cut by the water. The opening is quite large and the experience different from the other locations in the section. However, the view is still without too many houses and the cliff views are impressive.
I recommend a visit at low tide to see all the locals picking seafood. This is one of my favorite beaches in Normandy for scenery.

Berneval

Berneval is mostly famous for being one of the landing locations of an Anglo-Canadian Raid during WWII in 1942: Operation Jubilee. Sadly, the ships met a German convoy and the landing did not happen as planned. Many lives were lost. You will find more explanations at the site.

But to reach the beach, you can enjoy a nice dual staircase and the views of the cliffs from the last staircase platform are spectacular!

The villages and other places to visit on the Alabaster coast

Veules-les-Roses

Village of Yport

Étretat

And of course, you are never far from the beach... always a spectacular view!

See more pictures on my article about Étretat.

The beaches

The towns along this Norman Coast

Why visit Le Havre

First of all, it is my hometown. Not a good enough reason for you?
Well it is also a Unesco World Heritage site due to its special post-war architecture.
What I love the most is the mix of modern art with the square lines of the architecture and the incredible skies we get sometimes.

Main points of Interest

• The Perret Architecture especially the town hall and the Saint Joseph Church
• The Modern art throughout the city, especially the Catène with the colorful containers (by Vincent Ganivet)
• The "volcano" the architectural theater by Oscar Niemeyer
• The seafront and its special light which has inspired many painters

Find out more in my article about Le Havre

Visit tips

• Le Havre is very easy to explore on foot
• Plan at least half a day - but 1 day is better
• Try visiting the church under the sun - the play of the light through the hundreds of stain glass windows is beautiful
• Check out the best rated accommodations in Le Havre

Why visit Fécamp

Fécamp is mostly famous for its Benedictine palace where the liquor is made. Even if you don't visit the inside and the factory, stop by the building to enjoy its architecture.
But Fécamp is also an intriguing combination of interest with the religious pilgrimage sites and the fishing port traditions. This is a town turned towards the sea.

Main points of Interest

• The Benedictine Palace and its liquor factory
• The Museums about the fishermen
• Cap Fagnet with the bunkers and magnificent views of the coast

Find out more in my article about Fécamp

Visit tips

• First, plan your visit to the palace. Book in advance. then organize the rest around it.
• Large carparks by the sea. But in beautiful summer weekends, it can still be difficult to find a place to park.
• Plan half a day at least but 1 day is better
• Check out the best rated accommodations in Fécamp

Why visit Saint-Valéry

I was pleasantly surprised by Saint-Valéry. It is often overlooked compared to the other towns. But I really enjoyed the vibe here. Strolling along the harbor is very enjoyable. This town is also very connected to the sea. And as you walk on the dikes, the views of the cliffs and beaches are beautiful.

Main points of Interest

• Henri IV house - half-timbered house and museum
• Harbor walk
• Chapel with blue stain glass windows

Visit tips

• Easy to explore on foot
• Make sure to admire the beach at both low and high tides for a big change in scenery
• Plan half a day
• Large carparks by the sea on both sides of the harbor (however, it can also be difficult to park on beautiful summer weekends)
• Check out the best rated accommodations in Saint-Valéry-en-Caux

Why visit Dieppe

Dieppe is home to one of the rare fortified castles in the region of Normandy. Just that, makes it stand apart.
The structure of the town with the harbor creating something like a peninsula is quite interesting.
I really enjoyed strolling around the town and discovering its many facets.

Main points of Interest

• Old fortified Castle
• Remaining gate Les Tourelles
• The churches
• The impressive protected harbor

Find out more in my article about Dieppe

Visit tips

• Easy to walk around 
• The castle is on top of the cliff - you can reach it on foot or drive up there (but parking spaces are limited)
• Plan at least half a day
• Check out the best rated accommodations in Dieppe

Why visit Le Tréport

This is another town with a strong sea-focused life. It is a commercial port, a marina and a fishing port.
Its situation at the foot of the tallest cliffs in Europe makes it quite impressive.

Main points of Interest

• The view from the top of the funicular
• The height of the cliffs (the highest in Europe at over 100m, around 348ft)
• The old neighborhood called Cordier

A walking paradise - GR21 and smaller walks

If you enjoy hiking, the Alabaster coast area is also full of walking tracks, including the famous GR21. It has been elected in 2020 as the favorite hiking route for French people.
You can walk it entirely (190km - 118mi), or enjoy small portions of it, like in Étretat.

The Alabaster coast and WWII

Finally, the coast is also full of remnants from WWII.
Most people head to Omaha beach and Utah beach on the sandy side of the Norman coast.
But the Alabaster coast also has interesting sites. You can find blockhaus here and they are all along the coast. Here are some of the most interesting ones:

Quiberville-sur-Mer

At the northern end of the Quiberville-sur-Mer beach, you can see a blockhouse which has fallen from the cliffs.
Always a favorite with the photographers.

Cap Fagnet

As I wrote earlier, near Fécamp you can find Cap Fagnet with its chapel and magnificent views. It is also the location of several bunkers including the big Matmut.
It is one of the best-preserved sites on this part of Normandy. You will find explanation boards near them.
Learn more in my article.

Berneval

And as I wrote earlier as well, at Berneval you can also learn about the tragic story of Operation Jubilee.
There is not much to see, but it is an interesting place to realize what the soldiers had to face when landing.