The Alabaster coast in one of the jewels of the Normandy regions. It offers some of the most magnificent cliffs in France and Europe. All along the coast, you can appreciate the white chalk sculpted by Nature as well as the charming settlements established by humans. Let me take you to some of the most beautiful spots along the Côte d'Albâtre.
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Why visit the Alabaster coast in Normandy?
The Alabaster coast is my favorite destination in Normandy. As it is often said, a picture is worth a thousand words... So, let's start with these 3 photos taken in Etretat, the most famous section of the Alabaster coast (called Côte d'Albâtre in French):
The cliffs are definitively the main attractions of this area. Sometimes, as in the picture below, you can see them continuing on until the horizon.
The coast is around 130km long and there are cliffs almost everywhere that are 30m to 105m tall (100ft to 345ft).
Now, do you understand or shall I explain why this area is a must visit when road tripping around Normandy?
But, in fact, the Alabaster coast is actually more than just the cliffs:
- Large and small towns with a lot of character
- Tiny valleys cutting through the cliffs
- Charming villages where you should enjoy a stroll
- Historical sites - Castles, Churches and WWII bunkers.
I will tell you more about them in this article, with plenty of pictures!
Planning Tips - Côte d'Albâtre, Normandy
How to get to the Alabaster Coast
- In the Seine-Maritime district in Normandy
- Coast between Le Havre and Le Tréport
- Paris to Le Havre = 2h drive
- Rouen to Le Havre = 1h drive
- Paris to Le Tréport = 3h drive
- If you want to explore the coast, you need a private vehicle. Doing it by bus would not be easy.
- Below is a map to help you identify some of the main spots along the coast:
Alabaster Coast Map
Visit Tips
- You cannot visit the coast on a day trip from Paris. You could visit one of the places (or 2 if they are close) on the coast but that is it.
- I think a week is required to really explore the whole coast - but you can opt to visit only a few sites
- If you are limited in time, Étretat is a must visit. But for your other choices, I really can't decide. Have a look below and choose based on our preferences.
- The coast is a windy place, but the sun can also be harsh - make sure to bring layers of clothes to adapt to the weather during the day.
- Be careful, the cliffs are made of chalk, therefore they are not the most stable. You should not walk right on the edge and you should not lay down at the foot of the cliffs.
- Regarding accommodations, you can find options in the main towns and the small villages. See your options in the sections below. I think a night in Étretat is worth it, to be able to see the sunset with those magnificent cliffs and to enjoy the sight at low and high tide
- If you'd rather stay in one place the complete week to explore the region, the little town of Saint-Valery-en-Caux is quite central to the whole coast. So, it is a great base to explore the region - Check out the best rated accommodations in Saint-Valéry
All my favorite stops along the coast are included in my road trip guide (with a more detailed map) to help you plan your itinerary:
Be overwhelmed by the beauty, not the planning!
Plan your perfect trip around Normandy with:
- 8 easy-to-plan Maps
- 160+ pre-selected scenic locations
- Planning tips to make the most of your time
- 315+ large photos to decide where to go
- GPS coordinates direct to the carparks
Alabaster coast itinerary
If you have one week, my suggestion for your road trip itinerary is as follows:
- 1 night in Le Havre - see the best rated accommodations
- 2 nights in Étretat - see the best rated accommodations
- 1 night in Fécamp - see the best rated accommodations
- 1 night in Saint-Valéry-en-Caux - see the best rated accommodations
- 1 night in Dieppe - see the best rated accommodations
- 1 night in Le Tréport - see the best rated accommodations
The best clay cliffs views
If you are visiting the coast, the cliffs are the main attractions. Most of the time you see them from the water level on the beach. But there are a few viewpoints from the top of the cliffs where you can admire them better. Below are my favorite spots.
Cap Fagnet
Alabaster coast cliffs - Cape Fagnet
Near the town of Fécamp, you can drive or walk up to Cap Fagnet. The location is famous for its church, its WWII bunkers and for the impressive views.
On one side you can see the whole town of Fécamp and the cliffs towards the South.
But what I prefer is to walk a little North on the path to admire the wall of cliffs towards the North with waves sculpted by the sea.
There is a large carpark, it is easy to access.
Étretat South Cliffs
Alabaster coast cliffs - Étretat Manneporte Arch
Alabaster coast cliffs -Étretat pinnacle
When you are limited in time, it can be difficult to choose between climbing the North or South Cliffs of Étretat. Both offer magnificent views. However, my first choice is the South Side. But don't stop at the first viewpoint near the arch. Go further towards the Manneporte arch for great perspectives of the famous pinnacles and main arch.
This side can only be reached on foot via a steep slope.
To plan your stay in Étretat, check out my article dedicated to the village.
Étretat North Cliffs
Alabaster coast cliffs - Étretat Famous view
But if you are fit enough, I recommend climbing also on the other side (steep staircase from the promenade, or via the streets (less steep but longer) or during the Touristy season, they have public transportation.
On this side you have the gardens with art pieces, the aviation monument, the chapel and the most famous view of Étretat towards the thin arch and the pinnacle. You can even see the hole that allows you to reach the next beach at low tide.
Le Tréport across the harbor
Alabaster coast cliffs - Le Tréport
My last viewpoint selection is quite different. As you visit Le Tréport, drive towards the next town of Mers-les-Bains (which is not in Normandy). Once on the other side of the harbor mouth, you have a view of the historical neighborhood of Le Tréport and the massive cliffs behind. Those are some of the highest on the coast!
The "Valleuses", small valleys and staircases
As you can see above, there are kilometers and kilometers of tall cliff walls.
But once in a while there are accesses to the sea via man-built staircases, nature-created valleys and tiny valleys (called Valleuses). Or a mix of them.
The valleuses are more like cuts. They are quite unique in terms of geology. They were created 2 million years ago when the ground was lifted and by erosion.
Below are some of my favorite locations to explore.
Varengeville - Gorge des Moutiers
My first choice is a natural valley cut. The narrow Gorge des Moutiers is very impressive as you arrive on the beach between the walls of cliffs.
The walk starts next to a charming chapel at the top of the cliffs.
The last section is quite steep (and people with vertigo will have a difficult time) but I think it is worth the effort.
Sotteville Staircase
At Sotteville, you can find a man-made access to the sea. It was carved out of the chalk in 1890. At the time it was to give fishermen access to the sea. The original steps were made of wood, but they were blown up during the occupation.
The current staircase was built in 1954 with 231 steps.
I love them because they give access to the impressive wall of cliffs.
At low tide you can walk on the beach, but at high tide, it feels life you are walking down directly into the sea.
Saint-Pierre-en-Port
The little valley "Valleuse" of Saint-Pierre-en-Port was cut by the water. The opening is quite large and the experience different from the other locations in the section. However, the view is still without too many houses and the cliff views are impressive.
I recommend a visit at low tide to see all the locals picking seafood.
Berneval
Berneval is mostly famous for being one of the landing locations of an Anglo-Canadian Raid during WWII in 1942: Operation Jubilee. Sadly, the ships met a German convoy and the landing did not happen as planned. Many lives were lost. You will find more explanations at the site.
But to reach the beach, you can enjoy a nice dual staircase and the views of the cliffs from the last staircase platform are spectacular!
The villages and other places to visit on the Alabaster coast
Other attractions of the Alabaster coast are the villages nestled in the valleys or at the top of the cliffs. Some of them have a lot of charm and are worth a visit.
Veules-les-Roses
Veules-les-Roses is one of the most famous villages in Normandy. It has the label "plus beaux villages de France" (most beautiful villages in France).
It is a charming village with one particularity. It is built around the shortest sea-bound river in France: the Veules: it is 1.194 km long (0.742mi).
It means that you can easily walk the whole length from the source to the sea.
The village has established a walking path with informative signs that take you along the river and in the village. You will discover:
- watercress fields
- mills
- old half-timbered houses
- flintstone houses
- ...
Large carparks have been set up at the entrance of the village.
Plan at least 3 hours to enjoy the whole loop with a climb to the viewpoints.
Want to stay in Veules-les-Roses? Check out the best rated accommodations in the area.
Village of Yport
Yport is a lot less famous and it is one of my favorite villages on the coast (but it is still touristy with French visitors).
It used to be a fishing village. But became popular in the 19th century when sea-bathing was the thing to do.
I enjoy the beach with the blue and white huts and the arch inside the cliffs.
And I also recommend a stroll through the village to appreciate the flintstone houses typical of the region. They are in great condition.
The church is also a main attraction with miniature boats inside and a beautiful bicolor design outside.
Want to stay in Yport? Check out the best rated accommodations in the area.
Étretat
Étretat is famous for its cliffs, but the village is also worth a visit.
You can find an old church, rows of bicolor brick houses and a market hall with a lot of character.
The market hall is called 'Marché couvert'. Nowadays, you can find souvenir shops inside. It is a wooden structure from 1926. Before a farm was located here.
Want to stay in Étretat? Check out the best rated accommodations in the area.
And of course, you are never far from the beach... always a spectacular view!
The beaches
Lying down on beaches for the day is not really my thing.
I have listed, above in the article, some of the most spectacular beaches to admire the cliffs such as Étretat and the Valleuses and staircases to reach isolated areas.
But some of you might want to rest for a day, and spend a day relaxing on the beach. Therefore, here are some tips and recommendations.
Pebbles
First of all, know that all the beaches on the Alabaster coast are made of pebbles.
At low tide, some sand may appear, depending on how steep the beach is, but you will mostly lay down on pebbles (of various sizes).
Some of the largest beaches with facilities to relax are:
- Le Havre (see in the next section)
- Saint-Jouin-de-Bruneval (with beautiful cliff views) - one of the best options in my opinion
- Fécamp (see in the next section)
- Veulettes sur mer
- Saint-Valery-en-Caux (see in the next section)
- Quiberville
- Hautot-sur-Mer
- Dieppe (see in the next section)
- Criel Plage
Saint-Jouin-de-Bruneval - Antifer beach
Veulettes-sur-Mer beach
Quiberville beach
Hautot-sur-Mer beach
Criel Plage beach
The towns along this Normand Coast
Now let's have a look at all the main towns along the coast.
They all have a very different vibes and great points of interest to explore.
Below is an introduction to each one.
Le Havre
Why visit Le Havre
First of all, it is my hometown. Not a good enough reason for you?
Well it is also a Unesco World Heritage site due to its special post-war architecture.
What I love the most is the mix of modern art with the square lines of the architecture and the incredible skies we get sometimes.
Main points of Interest
- The Perret Architecture especially the town hall and the Saint Joseph Church
- The Modern art throughout the city, especially the Catène with the colorful containers (by Vincent Ganivet)
- The "volcano" the architectural theater by Oscar Niemeyer
- The seafront and its special light which has inspired many painters
Visit tips
- Le Havre is very easy to explore on foot
- Plan at least half a day - but 1 day is better
- Try visiting the church under the sun - the play of the light through the hundreds of stain glass windows is beautiful
- Check out the best rated accommodations in Le Havre
Fécamp
Why visit Fécamp
Fécamp is mostly famous for its Benedictine palace where the liquor is made. Even if you don't visit the inside and the factory, stop by the building to enjoy its architecture.
But Fécamp is also an intriguing combination of interest with the religious pilgrimage sites and the fishing port traditions. This is a town turned towards the sea.
Main points of Interest
- The Benedictine Palace and its liquor factory
- The Museums about the fishermen
- Cap Fagnet with the bunkers and magnificent views of the coast
Visit tips
- First, plan your visit to the palace. Book in advance. then organize the rest around it.
- Large carparks by the sea. But in beautiful summer weekends, it can still be difficult to find a place to park.
- Plan half a day at least but 1 day is better
- Check out the best rated accommodations in Fécamp
Saint-Valery-en-Caux
Why visit Saint-Valéry
I was pleasantly surprised by Saint-Valéry. It is often overlooked compared to the other towns. But I really enjoyed the vibe here. Strolling along the harbor is very enjoyable. This town is also very connected to the sea. And as you walk on the dikes, the views of the cliffs and beaches are beautiful.
Main points of Interest
- Henri IV house - half-timbered house and museum
- Harbor walk
- Chapel with blue stain glass windows
Visit tips
- Easy to explore on foot
- Make sure to admire the beach at both low and high tides for a big change in scenery
- Plan half a day
- Large carparks by the sea on both sides of the harbor (however, it can also be difficult to park on beautiful summer weekends)
- Check out the best rated accommodations in Saint-Valéry-en-Caux
Dieppe
Why visit Dieppe
Dieppe is home to one of the rare fortified castles in the region of Normandy. Just that, makes it stand apart.
The structure of the town with the harbor creating something like a peninsula is quite interesting.
I really enjoyed strolling around the town and discovering its many facets.
Main points of Interest
- Old fortified Castle
- Remaining gate Les Tourelles
- The churches
- The impressive protected harbor
Visit tips
- Easy to walk around
- The castle is on top of the cliff - you can reach it on foot or drive up there (but parking spaces are limited)
- Plan at least half a day
- Check out the best rated accommodations in Fécamp
Le Tréport
Why visit Le Tréport
This is another town with a strong sea-focused life. It is a commercial port, a marina and a fishing port.
Its situation at the foot of the tallest cliffs in Europe makes it quite impressive.
Main points of Interest
- The view from the top of the funicular
- The height of the cliffs (the highest in Europe at over 100m, around 348ft)
- The old neighborhood called Cordier
Visit tips
- Park at the top of the cliff and take the funicular down to the town - you will spend less time looking for a space and driving very slowly.
- Plan half a day
- Check out the best rated accommodations in Le Tréport
A walking paradise - GR21 and smaller walks
If you enjoy hiking, the Alabaster coast area is also full of walking tracks, including the famous GR21. It has been elected in 2020 as the favorite hiking route for French people.
You can walk it entirely (190km - 118mi), or enjoy small portions of it, like in Étretat.
The Alabaster coast and WWII
Finally, the coast is also full of remnants from WWII.
Most people head to Omaha beach and Utah beach on the sandy side of the Normand coast.
But the Alabaster coast also has interesting sites. You can find blockhaus here and they are all along the coast. Here are some of the most interesting ones:
Quiberville-sur-Mer
At the northern end of the Quiberville-sur-Mer beach, you can see a blockhouse which has fallen from the cliffs.
Always a favorite with the photographers.
Cap Fagnet
As I wrote earlier, near Fécamp you can find Cap Fagnet with its chapel and magnificent views. It is also the location of several bunkers including the big Matmut.
It is one of the best-preserved sites on this part of Normandy. You will find explanation boards near them.
Berneval
And as I wrote earlier as well, at Berneval you can also learn about the tragic story of Operation Jubilee.
There is not much to see, but it is an interesting place to realize what the soldiers had to face when landing.
Be overwhelmed by the beauty, not the planning!
Plan your perfect trip around Normandy with:
- 8 easy-to-plan Maps
- 160+ pre-selected scenic locations
- Planning tips to make the most of your time
- 315+ large photos to decide where to go
- GPS coordinates direct to the carparks
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